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Eco+ Model TSDZ2 - Torque Sensing Pedal Assist with Optional Throttle

The Eco+ TSDZ2 Mid Drive Motor - Torque Sensing Pedal Assist with Optional Throttle

Eco Cycles is proud to offer our own custom modified, new and improved, 'Eco+' TSDZ2 torque sensing assist kit that offers more torque, finer modulation of assist levels, upgraded display and accessory options, among many other features!

The harder you pedal - the harder the motor works with you. Torque sensing makes for much more natural pedaling/riding feel ~ compared to cadence sensing based systems.

The TSDZ2 utilizes your drivetrain/gearing for higher efficiency which means more range and ultimate hill climbing ability ~ compared to hub motor systems.

Maximum Speed Supported: 28 MPH+ (can set speed limit from display, if surpassed the motor will cease assist, but will not inhibit your own pedaling force)

Maximum Cadence Supported: 90-100RPM (after which you outrun the motor's assistance, but it will not inhibit your own pedaling force)

Maximum Torque: 100 N.m (double the torque of some leading competitors)

Torque Sensing Assist Ratios: +36-300% (incrementally increasing between 4 or 5 levels, depending on your display)

Gear Shift Detection: No Gear/Shift Sensor Needed  (unlike cadence based systems where they are considered all but mandatory)

Startup Behavior: Throttle can be operated from a standstill, while 1/4 of a Crank Rotation is necessary for pedal assist to kick in

Weight: Motor = 8 lbs  (with cables and accessories total weight is typically <12lbs. Batteries add approx. 3lbs to 13lbs, depending on the model)


- PARTS - 


Cranks - The TSDZ2 uses square or diamond taper cranks. You typically cannot use your existing cranks, as both cranks are 'loose' - not attached to a crankset. This is so the chainring can freewheel independently of your cranks.

Eco Cycles Corrected 170mm Cranks (INCLUDED WITH RECUMBENT/TRIKE KIT): This option replaces the right/drive side crank with a straight crank, to bring it inwards 20mm which narrows and balances the Q factor, making it symmetrical between the left and right side. This is much easier on your knees and hips over time.

Stock 170mm Cranks (NOT AVAILABLE WITH RECUMBENT/TRIKE KIT): The stock cranks both curve outwards a bit, and once installed, the stock right/drive side crank is approx. 4/5" (20mm) farther out from the centerline compared to the left/non-drive side crank, so the Q Factor is lop-sided. This is hard on your joints over time.

152mm Cranks (SOLD SEPARATELY) As with the stock 170mm cranks, the right/drive side crank is 4/5" (20mm) farther out from the centerline compared to the left/non-drive side crank. You can use a 20mm pedal extender on the left side only, however do note that while this will balance the Q factor, this is also widening it, which may not be ideal.


Chainring/Guard - The TSDZ2 comes stock with your selected chainring attached to a 110 BCD spider/adapter. Chainring swaps are very easy - first remove the adapter from the motor with (5) 4mm Allen Bolts - then the chainring/guard are just attached with (5) 5mm Allen Chainring Bolts - the standard type.


We also offer a variety of other chainring/guard options, as well as 104 BCD and 130 BCD spider/adapters. The spider/adapters will accept any standard chainring/guard with matching BCD. Spider/adapters will accept one chainring on the inside, and one chainring or guard on the outside.


The stock setup has a chainring on the inside with a chainguard on the outside and uses 'double chainring/bolts'. If you want to use a single chainring without a guard, you will need 'single chainring bolts'. If you want to use three chainrings, or two chainrings with a guard, you can use our 'triple chainring bolts w/ spacers' to space out the last chainring/guard.


Although you can setup a double or triple chainring, a single chainring w/ guard is typically all you need as long as you have gears in the rear, as the added power assist negates the need for additional front gears. A single chainring setup is also strongly recommended as sometimes the front derailleur will not quite have the reach/range to shift to a double and/or triple chainring due to the chainring placement being pushed slightly outwards from stock/standard position once the TSDZ2 is installed. If this is the case, you can always hand shift, or get a special adapter with a direct mount front derailleur to adjust the spacing so you can shift normally, although that does require a bit more setup.


NOTE: If you do go with a single chainring, we recommend removing your front derailleur if you have one, or at least the shifter for it, which opens up the ability to install a larger variety of accessory mounts such as the 'Cockpit Mini T w/ Cable Hole', in order to mount your display, throttle, etc.


Internal Gear - If you use lower assist and mind your gearing ratio, you should generally not have a problem with the (Stock) Plastic Gear* - but if you ride using predominantly higher assist levels, aggressively, with a heavier load, through very hilly terrain, or just want to make sure your system is bulletproof - we recommend upgrading to a Metal gear. The Metal gear add a bit of noise, but does quiet down a bit after 100 miles or so under load once it fully beds in.

 PEEK Gears are strong like the Metal Gear, yet quiet like the Stock Plastic Gear

*(Stock) Plastic Gears are covered under warranty and will be supplied as needed, however, user is responsible for replacement on their own, or covering expenses to send it in for replacement by a professional.

Please see gear replacement video below for reference:


Wiring HarnessYou can get a harness with all the ports without plugging in the throttle and/or e-brakes if you'd like, but some don't like to leave an open port exposed which creates a vulnerability in the system, not to mention less wires/ports/connectors makes for a cleaner install!

1T4 = Ports for Display, Throttle, and E-Brakes

1T3 = Ports for Display, and E-Brakes (NO Throttle)

1T2 = Ports for Display and Throttle (NO E-Brakes)

1T1 = Ports for Display ONLY (NO Throttle or E-Brakes)

NOTE: Battery and Speed Sensor have their own dedicated lines that are connected elsewhere.


Display - Eco Cycles offers upgraded displays versus the stock Tongsheng TSDZ2 options (VLCD-5, VLCD-6, and XH-18). While our smallest display, the SW102 minimalist, still has 4 levels of assist and a battery segment meter (as with the stock displays) - the C3 and 860C has 5 levels of assist for finer modulation, and can show the actual voltage (or percent, although only in increments of 20%).

All displays latch/mount to 22mm [7/8"] diameter bars, but the 860C is also compatible with 25.4mm and 31.8mm bars.

CLICK HERE FOR A VIDEO OF THE SW102 (small display with attached controls / buttons - not compatible with polarized sun/glasses)
CLICK HERE FOR A VIDEO OF THE 860C (large display with detached controls / button panel - brightest display in direct sunlight)
NOTE: The 860C may be familiar to some from Bafang/BBSxx systems, but when used with TSDZ2 there are some unavailable features, such as wattmeter, range, and brake indicator, all of which are not shown on the screen.

Throttle - TSDZ2 throttle function is governed to approximately 1/2 of the maximum pedal assist power.

Universal Thumb Throttle lever action moves perpendicular to the bar it is mounted on and is symmetrical, so can be mounted on either side of your handlebars.

Horizontal Thumb Throttles lever action moves parallel to the bar it is mounted on, and have left/right specific models.


Note: All throttles slide on (not latch) to standard 22mm [7/8"] diameter bars.


E-Brakes -

E-Brakes cut power when you brake as an extra safety cutoff feature. We do officially recommend E-Brakes, however with the very responsive torque sensing function cutting out very quickly when you cease pedaling with force, many find they are not neccesary and opt to go without them. This does simplify the install and keep things clean with minimal wiring.

Standard Mechanical Cable Pull Brake Levers w/ Built-in Cutoff Switch (use your own mechanical cable pull calipers) - Slide on/mount (not latch) to 22mm (7/8") diameter bars, and link to your existing mechanical cable pull calipers. The downside is if your existing brakes have a parking brake, you will lose that feature.

Through-Line/In-Line E-brake Sensors (use your own mechanical cable pull brakeset) - Thread your brake cable through the sensor to detect when you brake, automatically cutting power

Magnet E-Brake Sensors (use your own hydraulic brakeset) - Attach the magnet and sensor to brake lever and body so that they separate when you pull the lever, automatically cutting power

Push Button Killswitch E-brake (standalone button, not integrated into brakeset) - Slide on/mount (not latch) to 22mm (7/8") diameter bars. Momentary push button cuts power whenever pressed.


Speed Sensor - The speed sensor attaches to your chainstay (or on a mount near your front wheel, if applicable) and the spoke magnet attachs to your spokes. Each time the wheel rotates, the magnet passes by the sensor which detects a pulse. This is used to calculate and monitor your speed. Just set your wheel size in the display menu for an accurate measurement. 

NOTE: Spacing between sensor and spoke magnet should be approx. 1/2" (10-15mm) - too close will cause the speed reading to spike and cause intermittent cutout.


 Speed Sensor Installation Card

Want to add lights to your kit? Available separately, the dual port speed sensor has an extra port for the lighting circuit ouput, and includes a wiring harness. The light wiring harness is 16" solid line, then splits to front and rear, with 36" of line each way. Note the lighting circuit output is only 6v 0.5a, which is adequate for lower power lights 'to be seen', but not enough for higher power lights that could be used 'to see' ~ as a real headlight/spotlight to clearly see potholes or obstacles ahead on the road/trail at night. Do not connect higher consumption lights to the lighting circuit or you will fry it. Make sure only to attach 6v 0.5a (3w) lights or under, such as the dynamo lights. We have a good selection of compatible lights if needed.

Another (albiet a more advanced DIY) option is to use the light circuit to trigger a relay which can then be connected to and trigger power from the main battery line, or a DC/DC converter, to run high power lighting controlled from the display through the integrated lighting circuit.

NOTE: We have already designed and are currently working on producing our own plug and play high powered lighting kits as well, so stay tuned for that. Our Future Lighting kits will be a plug and play upgrade to our current TSDZ2 Systems.

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