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The TSDZ2 Mid Drive Motor - Torque Sensing Pedal Assist: The harder you pedal - the harder the motor works with you. 4 or 5 levels of assist provide smoothly integrated power ranging from +36-300%, allowing you to conquer virtually any hill with ease. This kit is compatible with and will retrofit 99% of recumbent/trikes by replacing the bottom bracket & crankset assembly - to utilize the existing drivetrain & gears for maximum efficiency.
Recumbent Trike Model Wire Lengths:Universally Sized Extensions are included for Display, Throttle, and E-Brakes, with options given for Speed Sensor Extensions and Total Battery Line Length. Should you select the 860C Display which has a Remote Button Panel, there will also be an option to add Extensions for that as well.
If you use lower assist and mind your gearing you should generally not have a problem with the (Stock) Plastic Gear - but if you ride using predominantly higher assist levels, agressively, with a heavier load, through very hilly terrain, or just want to make sure your system is bulletproof - we recommend upgrading to a Metal gear. The Metal gear add a bit of noise, but does quiet down a bit after 100 miles or so under load once it fully beds in.
Cranks - The TSDZ2 uses square or diamond taper cranks. You typically cannot use your existing cranks, as both cranks are loose, as in not attached to a crankset. This is so the chainring can freewheel independently of your cranks so the motor power only propels the chainring/drivetrain, and not the crank itself. This also allows you to use the throttle without propelling the cranks, just the chainring/drivetrain.
Stock 170mm Cranks: There is a major flaw with the stock cranks on the TSDZ2. The stock cranks both curve outwards a bit, and once installed, the stock right/drive side crank is approx. 20mm (4/5") farther out from the centerline compared to the left/non-drive side crank. This means the Q factor is not symmetrical, but lop-sided. This is not good for body mechanics, but Eco Cycles gladly provides a solution for this.
Q Factor Balancing 170mm Right Crank Upgrade: This options replaces the right/drive side crank (only) with a completely straight crank, bringing it inwards 20mm compared to the stock crank. This narrows and balances the Q factor, making it symmetrical between the left and right side, which is much better for body mechanics and easier on your joints.
152mm Cranks: Many people prefer shorter cranks, but unfortunately the same issue with the Q factor comes into play with these where the right/drive side crank is 20mm farther out from the centerline compared to the left/non-drive side crank. We do have a fix for this which is to use a 20mm pedal extender on the left side only, however do note that while this will balance the Q factor, this is also widening it, which may not be ideal.
Chainrings, Guards, and Spider Adapters - The TSDZ2 comes stock with a 42T chainring/guard which mounts to the included 110 BCD spider/adapter, but we offer a variety of other chainring/guard options, as well as 104 BCD and 130 BCD spider/adapters. The spider/adapters will accept any standard chainring/guard with matching BCD. Spider/adapters will accept one chainring on the inside, and one chainring or guard on the outside. If you use our 'triple chainring bolts w/ spacers', you can fit one more chainring or guard as well.
While our smallest display, the SW102 minimalist, still only has 4 levels of assist and a battery segment meter - the C3, 500C, and 860C, all have 5 levels of assist and can show the actual voltage (or percent in increments of 20%).
The 500C and 860C may be familiar to some from Bafang/BBSxx systems, but note that when used with TSDZ2 there are some unavailable features, such as wattmeter, range, and brake indicator. While the wattmeter is not on the 860C screen at all, it does show on the 500C screen, though staying blank/non-functional.
All displays latch/mount to 22mm [7/8"] diameter bars.
Throttles - TSDZ2 throttle function is governed to approx. 1/2 of the systems maximum pedal assist power.
Universal Thumb Throttle lever action moves perpendicular to the bar it is mounted on.
Horizontal Thumb Throttle lever action moves parallel to the bar it is mounted on.
All throttles slide on (not latch) to 22mm [7/8"] diameter bars.
E-Brakes - E-Brakes cut power when you brake as an extra safety cutoff feature. We do officially recommend E-Brakes, however with the very responsive torque sensing function cutting out very quickly when you cease pedaling with force, many find they are not neccesary and opt to go without them. This does simplify the install and keep things clean with minimal wiring.
Standard Mechanical Cable Pull Brake Levers w/ Built-in Cutoff Switch (use your own mechanical cable pull calipers) - Slide on/mount (not latch) to 22mm (7/8") diameter bars, and link to your existing mechanical cable pull calipers. The downside is if your existing brakes have a parking brake, you will lose that feature.
Through-Line/In-Line E-brake Sensors (use your own mechanical cable pull brakeset) - Thread your brake cable through the sensor to detect when you brake, automatically cutting power.
Magnet E-Brake Sensors (use your own hydraulic brakeset) - Attach the magnet and sensor to brake lever and body so that they separate when you pull the lever, automatically cutting power.
Push Button Killswitch E-brake (standalone button, not integrated into brakeset) - Slide on/mount (not latch) to 22mm (7/8") diameter bars. Momentary push button cuts power whenever pressed.
Speed Sensor and Optional Lighting Output for Integrated Lighting
The (Stock) Speed Sensor attaches to your chainstay (or on a mount near your front wheel, if applicable) and the spoke magnet attachs to your spokes. Each time the wheel rotates, the magnet passes by the sensor which detects a pulse. This is used to calculate and monitor your speed. The wheel size gets set in the display for an accurate measurement.
The Dual Port Speed Sensor has an extra port for the lighting circuit ouput, and includes a wiring harness. The light wiring harness is 16" solid line, then splits to front and rear, with 36" of line each way.
The lighting circuit output is 6v 0.5a, which is adequate for lower power lights 'to be seen', but not enough for higher power lights that could be used 'to see' ~ as a real headlight/spotlight to clearly see potholes or obstacles ahead on the road/trail at night. Do not connect higher consumption lights to the lighting circuit or you will fry it. Make sure only to attach 6v 0.5a (3w) lights or under, such as dynamo lights. We have a good selection of compatible lights if needed.
Another option is to use the light circuit to trigger a relay which can then be connected to and trigger power from the main battery line, or a DC/DC converter, to run high power lighting controlled from the display through the integrated lighting circuit.
We have already designed and are currently working on producing our own plug and play high powered lighting kits as well, so stay tuned for that. Lighting kits will be a plug and play upgrade to our current TSDZ2 Recumbent Trike Systems.